Carcassonne is a fascinating medieval hilltop village in the south of France.
As you wander the village, it's easy to imagine yourself in the heart of the Middle Ages. At least I did, to my great amusement! The sturdy stones beneath your feet will echo with the footsteps of armored soldiers who defended this long-contested hilltop.
The town is tiny, and some argue it's too touristy. Rick Steves called Carcassonne 'soulless'. An extraordinarily well-preserved medieval French fortified village that happens to be a UNESCO World Heritage Site... soulless? One that offers a majestic view of the Pyrenees? Wow, tough crowd. I strongly disagree with Steves' sentiment and thoroughly enjoyed my time there. I wouldn't recommend booking a three-day stay, but I found a half-day to be the perfect amount of time to explore the castle and ramparts, poke through the shops, and enjoy a nice meal at one of the best-preserved medieval sites in Europe.
The old city of Carcassonne sits along the Aude River.
A bit of history
Like much of Europe, the old city of Carcassonne has been a site of conflict and conquest for centuries. Originally an Iberian settlement in the 5th century, it was later occupied by Gallo-Romans, Visigoths, and Frankish rulers including Clovis I and Pippin III. In the late 11th century, construction began on the city’s basilica, reflecting a particularly prosperous era for the city. Soon after, the castle was built.
Surprisingly, the majority of the fortifications in and around Carcassonne weren't built until the 13th century. Defensive structures included a moat around the castle, the construction of the outer ramparts, and firing posts being added to the towers on the ramparts. The ramparts are double-walled, creating an almost impenetrable military stronghold out of this hilltop town. The inner ramparts are much older than these modern defenses, comprising 26 circular towers and dating back to 485 CE. The outer ramparts have 19 towers and were added under the reign of Louis IX and completed by his son Philip III.
Before the Franco-Spanish War (1648-59) was resolved, Carcassonne was situated on the volatile border between Spanish and French territories. Its strategic military location contributed to the city’s abundance and expansion during this time. However, once the war concluded, Carcassonne became part of France and lost its frontier position which led to the city being left to disrepair. It wasn't until the mid-19th century that a major restoration project revitalized the basilica and ramparts, continuing into the 1960s.
Today, Carcassonne looks more like a village from the Middle Ages than a military fortress. It has about 1,000 inhabitants, perhaps a testament to its rich and enduring history.
Making the climb from the new town up to the old.
How to get there
Unless you're driving, the easiest way to get to Carcassonne is by train. I was coming from Toulouse, only an hour and ten minutes away by rail. The Carcassonne train station will pop you out on the northern edge of the modern center of the town. From there, it's an easy 20-minute walk to the bottom of the old town. After that, there's no way to get up the hill without breaking a small sweat.
Google Maps insisted on sending me up the very front of the town, where I basically ended up scaling a cliff following a path that was more of a slightly worn section of grassy cliff. The views of the town were incredible from right in front, and eventually, I did find a way in between the walls. But seriously, don't do what I did. Instead, go the long way (on the actual road) and enter from the north side.
Exploring the village in the early morning.
Me, romanticizing a time without proper sanitation...
Wandering the town
I had the most fun in Carcassonne early in the morning when I first arrived. I did all my wandering and photo-taking before anyone else was awake. The experience of exploring an empty Middle Ages town made me want to reenact a bygone time. I asked my mom (more than once) to pretend to shoot arrows at me while I scaled the hill outside the fortified walls. The idea was ultimately shot down (pun intended) but that didn't stop my brain from getting carried back in time. I could really imagine myself in another era!
My point is, do all your wandering early in the morning before the crowds if you can. Once it started to get busy around 10am, Château Comtal and the ramparts were opening and I was ready to take in the town from another perspective.
Circling the citadel by walking atop the ramparts.
The Castle and Ramparts
First, let me clarify that entrance into the village is free. It's simply a town like any other. But to walk along the double-walled ramparts, you'll need a ticket. Tickets also include entry to Carcassonne's castle, Château Comtal, which is where you'll start from. The entrance spot on Google Maps is labeled as "Château et Remparts de la Cité de Carcassonne".
Tickets can be booked in advance online. They're free for kids and EU citizens ages 18-25 years old. For everyone else, prices are a reasonable €11. Even if you choose not to book tickets in advance (which I recommend) you should still check their website for up-to-date hours. I visited in July right when they opened at 10am. But I also just love their website in general because they have an in-depth history of the destination in English.
Once you enter, you'll start by making your way into the castle. It dates back to the 12th century and has a small museum. I wasn't overly interested in any of the pieces, but it's still worth the quick stroll. Then, you'll begin heading up to the ramparts to circle the city.
Level with the treetops, views from the top of the stronghold show off the village's red roofs and sweeping nearby farmland. On a clear day, you can see the Pyrenees mountains dotting the horizon line in the distance. My walk was peaceful with a gentle July breeze, which felt rather removed from the many violent historical occupations of the city.
It took me about an hour, with many photo stops, to walk along the open section of the ramparts. I started my walk from the castle and headed south, reaching the southernmost point just past the amphitheater. This was only a small portion of the ramparts which encompass the entire village.
It looked like visitors can usually walk further along the ramparts, but unfortunately, the rest of the path was closed during my visit, likely due to ongoing restoration work.
I'm curious if anyone else who has visited the ramparts can share their experience and tell me how much is typically accessible to visitors! Fortunately, it didn't impact my enjoyment of the experience.
View from the ramparts.
Details of the city.
Shops and the Basilica
After popping back out into the city, it's worth taking some time to weave through the narrow streets to peruse the shops. If you were ever looking to reenact a medieval play, Carcassonne is the place to buy your costume. Seriously though, I found humor in the wildly touristy shops and appreciated that they're leaning into it.
Some people probably find this tacky, but I thought it was funny!
A rusty sign hangs above a restaurant on a narrow, winding street.
You can easily circle the entire village in ten minutes, so be sure to pop into the Saint Nazaire Basilica. If you've seen one European church, you've kind of seen them all, and yet I never tire of them. It's small, but its 14th-century stained glass windows appear as they did when Carcassonne was in its prime.
Inside the Saint Nazaire Basilica.
To wrap up your visit, rest your feet and fill your stomach at any of the local restaurants. I ended up eating at Brasserie Café Lucien for lunch. They have a large outdoor seating area behind the restaurant that's shaded and shielded from the busy streets. I had a boring hamburger (that's a comment on my choice, not the quality of the food), but my mom tried their specialty dish: the Cassoulet au Confit de Canard et Saucisse de Toulouse. It was still spitting and bubbling when it came out. We were impressed!
My mom had the Cassoulet au Confit de Canard et Saucisse de Toulouse.
Me, happy to find a quiet spot away from the crowds.
If you want to turn your half-day into a full day, you could visit the Museum of the Inquisition, AKA the torture museum. Yes, you read that right, and no, it's not for those with weak stomachs. Alternatively, you could stroll Carcassonne's "Ville Basse", or the new Lower City, and pop into their Musée des Beaux-Arts to gaze at 17th-century to modern-day French art.
But for me, a half-day was plenty, and chose to hotfoot it back down the hill around 1:30pm to make my train. It was a very full few hours, but incredibly rewarding and I'm so glad I took the time to see Carcassonne for myself.
Carcassonne is for culture lovers. Frankly, I enjoyed my brief trip to Carcassonne over the attractions in Toulouse and Marseille combined. A morning of being swept back in time, while still enjoying the modern comforts of a flushable toilet, was just the right amount of history for me. I'd love to hear your thoughts in the comments if you've been, and if I missed any must-see or do attractions!
PIN THIS GUIDE!
