Everyone should visit Paris at least once in their lifetime.
Paris is an effortlessly romantic city that has captured the hearts and minds of eager travelers and hopeful artists over the centuries. While it's embraced modernity in the ways that matter, both socially and ecologically, much of Paris remains unchanged from Baron Haussmann's transformation of the city in the mid-1800s. Perhaps that's what draws people in: timeless classic beauty and a sense of magic.
I've put off making a travel itinerary for Paris since it seemed like an impossible task. As a local, I'd tell you to spend a full month getting to know France's capital city. But in truth, an introduction to Paris that hits all the major attractions can be done in five days. You'll see all the best museums, take time to wander the riverbanks as a 'flâneur', and enjoy authentic French food. I've also tried to spread out the museums and keep you in roughly the same area each day to combat fatigue.
Researching a first trip to Paris is an ambitious task. As a Parisian, I hope this guide relieves some of your planning stress and helps you make the most of each day!
Table of Contents
- Day 1: Eiffel Tower, Arc de Triomphe, river cruise, & more!
- Day 2: Louvre, Centre Pompidou, Pont Neuf, & more!
- Day 3: Sacré Coeur, exploring Montmartre, Moulin Rouge, & more!
- Day 4: The Marais, Notre Dame Cathedral, Shakespeare & Co. bookshop & more!
- Day 5: Versailles, Galleries Lafayette, Palais Garnier, & more!
Day 1
Avenue de Camoens
Ideally, you'll have arrived the night before, so you can begin your first morning up before the crowds to hit a few of the best photo spots, starting with Avenue de Camoens. This street is for pedestrian traffic only and offers one of the best portrait locations with the Eiffel Tower.
It's usually mobbed by 10am, but if you're up early enough you can have the place to yourself. People often bring props and have a little photoshoot here, but it's a surprisingly private and residential spot, so please be respectful to the people who live nearby!
Address: Avenue de Camoens, 75017 Paris
How to get there: Take Metro line 6 to Passy or Metro line 9 to Trocadéro and walk from there.
Trocadéro
After a few photos, head over to the Parvis des Droits de l'Homme, a gorgeous tiled plaza centered outside the Palais de Chaillot. If you have a camera, it's a good place to play with perspective to create some interesting shots. Then, cross the plaza to check out the overlook area and make your way down the iconic stairs (another great photo spot!) to visit the Trocadéro Gardens.
The city of Paris has begun construction to overhaul the area in front of Trocadéro to make the intersection safer and more enjoyable for pedestrians. Please excuse the construction! If you're curious, there's a wonderful video on YouTube showing what it will look like when completed. It's one part of the city's major greenification efforts to make the city more livable.
When you're ready, make your way down the hill and cross the Pont d'Iéna to head towards the Eiffel Tower!
Address: 1 Pl. du Trocadéro et du 11 Novembre, 75016 Paris
How to get there: It's a few minutes walk from Avenue de Camoens.
Other tips: The two walking paths that run parallel to the Trocadéro Gardens have rows of trees that have the most beautiful cherry blossoms in early spring!
Rue de l’Université
Assuming you were up early, you should have time to also visit Rue de l'Université before the Eiffel Tower opens. It's another spot that gets busy, and rightly so. In my opinion, this side street offers one of the all-time best photo-ops in the city.
Address: Rue de l'Université, 75007 Paris
How to get there: A few minutes walk from the Trocadéro Gardens.
Eiffel Tower
Next, get in line a few minutes before the timed entry listed on your ticket to enjoy the star attraction of the day: la Tour Eiffel. I'll make an entire post dedicated to visiting this monument at some point, but for now, triple-check your ticket to make sure you're entering on the correct side based on the type of ticket you purchased (elevator or no elevator included).
Once you get through security, you'll be let out into the underneath area of the tower. Looking up to see the inside of the structure is spectacular! When you're ready to go up, you'll once again need to find your proper line based on your elevator or no elevator ticket type.
If it's your first time visiting, you should go all the way to the top for the sake of it, but I do prefer the view of the city from the middle level. There is a first floor, a second floor (middle), and the top. For me, the top feels too far away to gaze at the details of the marvelous building facades, but being that high up is its own kind of fun.
When you're up there, be sure to take note of the gears controlling the elevator and the little statue man that rides on the back of the elevator! I also recommend taking the stairs down at least partially for another vantage point.
Address: Tour Eiffel, Champ de Mars, 5 Av. Anatole France, 75007 Paris
How to get there: Right next to Rue de l'Université, but make sure you're entering on the proper side based on your ticket type. Your ticket tells you where to enter.
Hours: Seasonal hours. Open 9am-midnight from mid-June to early September, and open 9:30am-11pm the rest of the year.
Cost: Tickets need to be purchased online in advance and, in the summer, they can sell out months ahead of time. Ticket prices depend on whether you plan to take the elevator or stairs, or a combination of both, as well as how far up you want to go. There are kid and youth rates, and any child under the age of 4 is free.
Other tips: The official website has lots of historical and planning information that's worth a read (in English). In addition, there are nice bathrooms on each level inside the tower, and I highly suggest using them before you leave.
Au Canon des Invalides/Le Recrutement
By now it's probably about lunchtime, so this is a half lunch half photo-op location. The two intersections with the cafes Le Recrutement and Au Canon des Invalides have wonderful views of the Eiffel Tower. The cafes have outdoor seating along Rue Saint-Dominique so you can enjoy the view while you eat. I think Au Canon des Invalides has slightly better food and more menu options, but both are a worthy stop.
How to get there: A lovely 15-minute walk from the Eiffel Tower.
Au Canon des Invalides
Address: 54 Rue Saint-Dominique, 75007 Paris
Hours: Monday-Friday 7am-11pm, Saturday 8am-11pm, closed Sundays.
Le Recrutement
Address: 36 Bd de la Tour-Maubourg, 75007 Paris
Hours: Lunch is served from 12pm. Open daily from 7am-11:30pm.
Musée Rodin
In the afternoon, take a brief walk over to the Musée Rodin. A year before Auguste Rodin's death in 1917, the sculptor donated the entirety of his life's work to the French state. They in turn purchased a mansion, Hôtel Biron, with a spectacular outdoor garden area in central Paris to become a dedicated museum for the artist, which opened in 1919.
It's home to some of Rodin's most famed pieces such as The Gates of Hell, The Thinker, and The Cathedral. The artist is known primarily for his sculpture work, but the museum also features a small collection of drawings, paintings, antiques, and letters from similarly well-known artists of the time.
When you visit, make sure to take ample time to fully explore the gardens surrounding the Hôtel Biron. You may want to find a shaded bench and simply sit for a while.
It's best to purchase your ticket online in advance if you expect it to be busy, though it's not required.
Address: 77 Rue de Varenne, 75007 Paris
How to get there: About a 10 minute walk from the recommended lunch cafes.
Hours: Open from Tuesday to Sunday from 10am-6:30pm (last admission at 5:30pm). Closed Mondays.
Cost: Tickets are €14, and include access to the indoor permanent collection and the outdoor sculpture garden. Admission is free for anyone under 18 years old or EU residents under age 26.
Other tips: If you expect the museum to be busy when you go, you can add an additional €1 fee to your ticket when purchased online to skip the queue.
Arc de Triomphe
The Arc de Triomphe is another one of the city's most iconic landmarks, standing 164 feet (50 meters) tall at the center of Place Charles de Gaulle on the west end of the city. The area was formerly known as Place d'Étoile, or "star" in reference to the 12 avenues that radiate out from the roundabout like a star.
The arc, which was commissioned by Napoleon I in the early 1800s, honors the fallen soldiers from the French Revolutionary and Napoleonic Wars. When you visit, you'll find the names of all the French victories and the generals inscribed on the monument. Be sure to also take note of The Tomb of the Unknown Soldier from World War One underneath the arc, which is meant to honor all those who have fought and died for France throughout history.
Somber as the arc's history may be, the visit itself is always a treat, once you get up the 284 stairs to the top that is. The observation deck has spectacular panoramic views at all times of the day. I love to take time-lapse videos of the traffic chaos happening beneath my feet! It also offers an excellent view of the Eiffel Tower, so it's worth trying to squeeze a photo from between the safety bars.
I'd take at least a good hour here. That'll give you plenty of time to walk around the exterior, visit the small museum located at roughly the halfway point off of the interior spiral stairs, and take lots of photos at the top.
Address: Place Charles de Gaulle, 75008 Paris
How to get there: Take Metro line 13 from Varenne to Champs-Élysées - Clemenceau where you'll transfer to line 1 and get off at Charles de Gaulle – Étoile. Takes about 20 minutes total.
Hours: April 1st to September 30th: 10am-11pm. October 1st to March 31st: 10am-10:30pm. Last admission is 45 minutes before closing.
Cost: Full fare is €16, free admission for all under 18 and EU residents under 26. Purchase your ticket online.
Other tips: Public service announcement: There are underground passages to reach the Arc de Triomphe. Please DO NOT run out into oncoming traffic to get there! I can't tell you how many people I've seen do this. To be fair, if you haven't done your research you may not notice the underground stairs and may think a mad sprint is the only way to get there. It isn't...
Champs Elysée
Depending on how much time you spent at the afternoon attractions, it may be early evening by now, which is actually the perfect time to walk the Champs-Élysées. All the fun stores are open until 8-9pm in the evening, so you can still do some window shopping while watching this famous road begin to sparkle as the lights switch on.
Keep in mind that the shops here seem to change over often. I miss the Disney Store that used to be here! And oftentimes, you can't simply wander into the luxury stores to explore. There's a bouncer (well, security guard, but let's be real) and usually a line of people waiting to enter. That said, one place you can and absolutely should pop into is Galeries Lafayette Champs-Élysées. It's not as spectacular as the one in the 9th, but you'll visit that one too!
Address: Avenue des Champs-Élysées, 75008 Paris
How to get there: The Arc de Triomphe is situated on the Champs, just walk southeast on Avenue des Champs-Élysées from there!
Pont Alexandre III
There are 37 bridges that span the Seine in Paris, but Pont Alexandre III is easily one of the most spectacular. Built in the late 1800s, the bridge has ornate embellishments on its sides emblematic of the Beaux Arts style. Being on the bridge isn't that exciting, the view is from the side!
It also has an upper and lower level. The lower is exclusive to pedestrians and connects the North and South promenades at follow the Seine.
Address: Pont Alexandre III, 75008 Paris
How to get there: Depending on where you are on the Champs Elysée, it's about a 25 minute walk. Otherwise, you can take metro line 1 from George V and get off 2 stops later at Champs-Élysées - Clemenceau.
Dinner Cruise on the Seine
What better way to finish off your first day in Paris than to enjoy a four-course meal on the Seine? From Pont Alexandre III, you'll easily be able to access the boarding point for whichever cruise company you decide to book with. The experiences are all about the same, but make sure you're happy with the menu and consider paying a little extra for a window seat before booking.
I did this on my first trip to Paris as a teenager and it was such a highlight. You can view different options on sites like Viator and then book through them or directly on the cruise company's website if you prefer.
Address: Remember to double-check your reservation for the exact boarding location. Each tour is different, but all the cruises leave from somewhere between the Eiffel Tower and Pont Neuf.
Hours: Most dinner cruises depart around 8:30pm and have you back 2 hours later.
Cost: Usually about €130-€200 per person, depending on the tour company and your package.
Other tips: Dress codes range from smart casual to formal. I found formal to be more fun, but regardless, check your reservation details and dress accordingly.
Day 2
Colonnes de Buren
Your second day in Paris largely revolves around the Louvre and surrounding attractions.
To begin, get up early and head over to the Domaine National du Palais-Royal, a stunning 17th-century building with covered shops and Daniel Buren's striped columns in the courtyard. It's quiet in the mornings and a fun place to take photos before the crowds arrive.
Address: Galerie de la Cour d'Honneur, 2 Rue de Montpensier, 75001 Paris
How to get there: Take metro line 1 or 7 and get off at Palais Royal - Musée du Louvre. It's only a minute's walk away from there.
Hours: Open daily from 8:30am-10:30pm.
Cost: Free to visit the square and the Jardin du Palais Royal directly north of it (which you should do!).
Other tips: For whatever reason, the security guards insist that you can't use a tripod to take photos here...but other people can take photos for you. Go figure.
Jardin de Tuileries
The Jardin de Tuileries is one of my favorite public gardens in Paris. Landscaped into a French formal garden style originating from the 17th century, it's a wonderful green space to relax in the sun and people watch.
In the winter, it hosts a Christmas Market complete with rides, mulled wine, and shops. During the summer, you can ride the Ferris Wheel for an exceptional view of the Louvre and central Paris down below.
Address: Jardin des Tuileries, 75001 Paris
How to get there: About a five minute walk from the Domaine National du Palais-Royal. I'd enter the garden by Place du Carrousel so you don't miss the Arc de Triomphe du Carrousel.
Hours: From the last Sunday in September to the last Saturday in March: every day, 7:30am-7:30pm. From the last Sunday in March to the last Saturday in September: every day, 7am-9pm. June, July and August: every day, 7am-11pm. Visitors are asked to leave the park about 30 minutes before closing time.
Place de la Concorde
Walk west across the Jardin de Tuileries to reach Place de la Concorde. It's a high-profile (and often politically charged) spot in the city which was the primary home of the guillotine during the French Revolution! While nothing nearly that eventful takes place nowadays, visitors can see the Eiffel Tower, two ornate fountains that make for excellent photo-ops, and the Egyptian Obelisk.
Its full name in French is 'Obélisque de Louxor'. This obelisk and its sister, which remains in Egypt, were created in Luxor, Egypt, over 2,000 years ago to mark the entrance of the Luxor Temple. So how did the monument end up in Paris? It was a gift to France from the Egyptian government and was transported on a custom-made ship in the 1830s.
The obelisk's pedestal is from the same time period, which displays gold carvings of the machinery required to transport it. Most recently, a gold cap was added to the top of the monument in 1998.
Address: Place de la Concorde, 75008 Paris
How to get there: A leisurely 10 minute walk through the Tuileries.
Musée du Louvre
The Louvre is the most famous museum in the world, and for good reason. It houses over 380,000 artifacts in its permanent collection spanning 10,000 years of human history. It has everything from world-renowned paintings like the Mona Lisa to a prestigious Egyptian collection to Napoleon III's extravagant apartments.
If they're available, purchase tickets for right when the museum opens and head straight for the Mona Lisa to avoid excessive queueing as the day goes on. I'd suggest spending 3 hours here if you plan to see the highlights, but art history buffs could easily take a full day.
Address: Musée du Louvre, 75001 Paris
How to get there: A pleasant 15 minute walk from Place de la Concorde or 1 stop on metro line 1 from Concorde to Palais Royal - Musée du Louvre (NOT Louvre - Rivoli, they're different metro stops).
Hours: Open Monday, Thursday, Saturday, and Sunday from 9am-6pm. Wednesdays and Fridays open until 9pm. Closed Tuesdays.
Cost: Tickets are €22. Free for EU visitors aged 18-25 and for anyone under 18. Audio guides are €6.
Other tips: See my separate A Local's Guide to Visiting the Louvre and Best Things to See in the Louvre blog posts for more detailed information to plan your visit.
Lunch
There are lots of cafés and restaurants near the Louvre, so it all depends on what you're looking for. My three suggestions below are within easy walking distance of the museum and offer classic French food.
Le Café Marly - very pricey for what it is, but it offers unbeatable front-row seats next to the Louvre's glass Pyramids with plenty of outdoor seating. Reservations are recommended and you can do so online.
View the menu.
Address: 93 Rue de Rivoli, 75001 Paris
Café Blanc - affordable and has a wide variety of lunch options, known for its friendly service. Reservations are not required but are often helpful in the busy summer months.
View the menu.
Address: 10 Rue Croix des Petits Champs, 75001 Paris
Café Saint Honoré - a fun corner café with life-sized teddy bears! It's slightly more tucked away from the crowds than the options above. They serve excellent salads and I've always had good service here. Reservations not required.
View the menu.
Address: 194 Rue Saint-Honoré, 75001 Paris
Centre Pompidou
After lunch, head over to the Centre Pompidou to take a lap through the National Museum of Modern Art. The Pompidou also has a library, hosts talks in the lower level auditorium, and puts on temporary art exhibitions, but most first-time visitors go for the national art museum.
I'm not all that into modern art, but I do enjoy a quick lap around the permanent collection. That's half the fun, and the other half is simply taking in the exposed pipes that run along the outside of the building and through the ceiling on the ground floor. Essentially built inside out, this avant-garde building hasn't been renovated since it opened in 1977. There's a five-year planned closure of the building from 2025-2030, so if you're in Paris before the work begins, visiting the Pompidou is a must!
Centre Pompidou address: Place Georges-Pompidou, 75004 Paris
How to get there: It's about a 20 minute walk from the Louvre, or you could take metro line 1 from Palais Royal - Musée du Louvre to Hôtel de Ville and walk from there.
Hours: Closed Tuesdays. Open Wednesday-Monday from 11am-9pm.
Cost: A visit to the permanent collection only is €15 for adults with discounts for young people. A day ticket that includes all temporary exhibitions and the permanent collection is €18. Tickets should be purchased online in advance.
Other tips: Don't miss the Centre Pompidou's terraces on levels 5 and 6 that offer a view of the Marais and Eiffel Tower in the distance.
Visiting after the planned closure of the Centre Pompidou?
Head over to the Musée de l'Orangerie instead. It's home to some of Monet's most renowned water lilies paintings.
Musée de l'Orangerie address: southwest end of the Jardin des Tuileries, 75001 Paris
Pont Neuf & Les Halles
Finish off all your museum-ing for the day with a stroll along the river at Pont Neuf. I love this area. It's effortlessly romantic and feels like the absolute heart of Paris is somewhere on that bridge.
Address: Pont Neuf, 75001 Paris
How to get there: A 15 minute walk from the Centre Pompidou.
Other tips: If you want to access the Square du Vert-Galant, take the stairs directly behind the Henry IV statue on the bridge.
Dinner & Drinks by the Seine
This is a warm weather activity, but if it's nice out I highly recommend ordering Uber Eats and drinks to a spot on the river bank for dinner. Yes, they'll really deliver it! It's kind of iconic and a ton of fun to do with friends. Watch the sunset and enjoy a chill evening like a true Parisian. If you have a specific spot on the river bank in mind, make sure you get there early. It'll be packed on a summer day!
Alternatively, if you're lucky you can grab a table at Maison Maison. It's right on the river bank so it still offers an incredible view. The menu is great and the staff often speak English, but it feels like a local spot.
Address: 63 voie Georges Pompidou, dans l'escalier face au, 16 Quai du Louvre, 75001 Paris
How to get there: A few minutes away on foot from Pont Neuf.
Hours: Maison Maison is open seasonally from 12pm-12am.
Day 3
Rue de l'Abreuvoir
Your third day in Paris brings you to Montmartre, the former hangout of world-famous artists like Monet, Degas, Renoir, and Picasso. If there's one neighborhood in Paris that looks largely untouched from this time period, it's Montmartre.
Begin your day with a morning stroll along Rue de l'Abreuvoir, home to the famous La Maison Rose cafe. Obviously, the earlier you the more likely you'll be to have the area largely to yourself. It's a gorgeous spot and therefore a popular street for photos!
Address: Rue de l'Abreuvoir, 75018 Paris
How to get there: Take metro line 12 to Lamarck - Caulaincourt. It's a short (but very steep) walk along Rue des Saules from there.
Musée de Montmartre
The best way to enjoy the Musée de Montmartre is on a quiet weekday morning when it opens at 10am. Be sure not to miss the movie at the beginning which contextualizes the time period in which Montmartre was truly at its height. From there, wander through the gardens and grounds and peek over the stone wall to catch a glimpse of the last remaining vineyard in Paris.
This museum was once the private home of Pierre-Auguste Renoir in the 1870s. I can't imagine having a full-on house and private gardens in the middle of Paris today. This space feels like a glorious escape to nature in the middle of a chaotic city and that's one of the reasons I love it.
Inside, you'll find photographs, paintings, and posters that all depict Montmartre throughout history. Some even depict the museum itself! You can also walk through famous French painter Suzanne Valadon's studio apartment from 1912.
Afterward, grab brunch at Cafe Renoir inside the museum's gardens and soak in the tranquility.
Address: Musée de Montmartre, 12 Rue Cortot, 75018 Paris
How to get there: It's the next block over from Rue de l'Abreuvoir.
Hours: Open daily from 10am-7pm, last entry at 6:15pm.
Cost: Tickets are €15 for adults. For EU students aged 18-25 tickets are €10, all visitors ages 10-17 are €8, and kids under 10 are free. You can purchase your ticket upon arrival or online in advance.
Other tips: It is possible to visit the last remaining vineyard in Paris which neighbors the museum. Tickets can be purchased on the museum's website. There's only one tour that runs each Saturday for €39. The tour begins with a guided tour of the vineyard and is followed by a wine tasting of wine produced by the vineyard. The ticket also includes access to the Musée de Montmartre.
Sacré Coeur
Sacre Coeur, or "Sacred Heart" in French, was completed in 1910 and is located at the top of the hill in Montmartre, the highest point in Paris. As such, the panoramic views from both the base of the basilica and the dome are some of the best in the city.
The design was inspired by domed Roman-Byzantine churches, what what I find most interesting is how white the building is. It was built with a special stone that exudes calcite when it rains. The calcite acts as a natural bleach, keeping the basilica white and even sparkly when wet.
Entrance into the basilica is free (though a dome tour requires a ticket), you just need to go through a quick bag check. When inside, take special note of the largest mosaic in France - a 480 square meter piece that decorates the inside of one of the domes.
Address: 35 Rue du Chevalier de la Barre, 75018 Paris
How to get there: A five minute walk from the Musée de Montmartre.
Hours: Open daily from 6:30am-10:30pm.
Cost: Free to enter and explore the basilica. If you want to access the dome, tours in the warmer months run from 10:30am-8pm. Tickets are purchased in person at the ticket office. More information can be found on the official website. The crypt is currently closed.
Other tips: Technically, visitors are prohibited from taking photos inside the basilica but you'll see lots of people sneaking photos anyway.
Lunch
After a lap around Sacre Coeur, I highly recommend stopping for lunch at one of the cafes with outdoor seating at Place du Tertre. I like Chez Eugène (and they have the best outdoor seating right in the center of the square), but all the cafes here are good choices.
What's fun about eating outside is that this square is a hub for local artists to sell their work and create live portraits of visitors! Each morning, artists set up their easel and a small collection of pieces for sale. I sat for a portrait here when I visited Paris for the first time as a teenager. It was a lot of fun to be drawn in real-time and the result was beautiful. I still have the piece somewhere! If you have a moment after lunch, these pieces are priced fairly and make for treasured souvenirs.
Address: Place du Tertre, 75018 Paris
How to get there: A five minute walk from Sacre Coeur Basilica.
Walking Tour
Now that you've hit the absolute must-sees before the worst of the crowds gather in Montmartre, it's time to get a little lost. Montmartre is a magical neighborhood in Paris because it's easy to imagine it as a time capsule. Walking along the narrow pedestrian-only cobblestone streets, passing by storied cafes and incredible architecture, I can almost picture life in Paris 100 years ago.
Take an hour or so to explore these iconic streets. If you're a fan of structured wandering (as I am) I'd suggest going to:
- Vla Léandre, a lovely residential area
- the Cemetery of Montmartre
- the famous cabaret Au Lapin Agile
- the two surviving windmills (there were about 30 in Motmartre's hay day!) in Montmartre. The first, Moulin Radet, is best seen from Rue Tholozé. The other sits right on top of the restaurant Le Moulin de la Galette.
Other tips: Montmartre is incredibly steep. If you have mobility concerns or are trying to save your energy, consider taking the RATP bus 40 instead for only €1.90. It'll go by all the major attractions in the area and can save your legs!
Le Vrai Paris
Both a local favorite and a tourist delight, Le Vrai Paris is the perfect place to rest and grab a refreshment after your walking tour. It's admittedly a bit pricey, but I love the location, the service is great, and the food is impressive for such a popular spot.
And the best news of all? It's downhill, you're welcome. I enjoy sitting outside among the colorful artificial flowers, but the inside of the cafe feels luxurious and classically French. View the menu.
Address: 33 Rue des Abbesses, 75018 Paris
How to get there: Walk from wherever you end up after exploring the neighborhood. Metro stations in the area are few and far between.
Hours: Open daily from 7am-2pm.
Musée Nissim de Camondo
The museum is CLOSED for renovations from August 4th, 2024.
In the late afternoon, this itinerary takes you outside Montmartre briefly to visit one of my favorite lesser-known museums in Paris. The Musée Nissim de Camondo has three floors of ornately decorated rooms that have been preserved in their original condition. It reminds me of a miniature Versailles. Gorgeous as it is, it's the history of the place that fascinates me the most. You won't get the full experience without the audio guide, so make sure you include it in your ticket when you arrive.
The Musée Nissim de Camondo is the former home of Count Moïse de Camondo who had it built in 1911 to house his French decorative arts collection. The audio guide walks you through the fascinating and resilient history of this family, including the horrors and tragedies of World War I, and how the mansion eventually became a museum. I'm not much of an audio guide person, but the English version tells these stories in an incredibly intriguing way.
Address: 63 Rue de Monceau, 75008 Paris
How to get there: From Le Vrai Paris, walk five minutes to Pigalle on metro line 2. Take it four stops and get off at Villiers and walk five minutes from there. Takes about 17 minutes, otherwise, it's a thirty minute walk.
Hours: Open Wednesday-Sunday from 10am-5:30pm. Closed Monday and Tuesday.
Cost: Full price adult tickets are €13. Anyone under age 18 is free, as are EU residents under 26 years old. The museum is usually not too busy, but if you prefer, you can purchase a timed ticket in advance.
Parc Monceau
After the museum, take a walk through nearby Parc Monceau. Not only is it a green oasis in the heart of the city, but it also features a row of columns from the 18th century. The paths are lined with benches so it's also a good place to people watch!
Address: 35 Bd de Courcelles, 75008 Paris
How to get there: Right around the corner from the Musée Nissim de Camondo.
Hours: Varies by season, check current hours online.
Moulin Rouge
It's a splurge, but there's no better place for dinner and a show in the City of Lights. The Moulin Rouge (literally translates to "red windmill") is a cabaret famous for its glitzy stage shows full of feathers, costume changes, choreography, miniature ponies (let me know in the comments if they still do this!), acrobatics, the iconic can-can dance, and much more.
It's quite the spectacle, but the performances are weird and wild in the best way. So sit back and enjoy your meal and a show you'll always remember!
Address: 82 Bd de Clichy, 75018 Paris
How to get there: Hop on metro line 2 four stops from Monceau to Blanche. Takes about 10 minutes.
Hours: Dinner and a show begins at 7pm, or you can attend only the show at 9pm or 11pm.
Cost: Prices vary. You can go for the dinner and show at 7pm or just attend the show at either 9 or 11pm. Generally, dinner and a show is about €250 per person and only the show is closer to €150. Tickets can be sold out months in advance. I'd recommend booking online as soon as you nail down your trip dates.
Day 4
Sainte-Chapelle
Begin your fourth day in Paris at Sainte-Chapelle, a 13th-century gothic chapel. It was originally built as a private chapel for King Louis IX in the heart of his royal apartments in the Palais de la Cité (the first royal residence for French kings before Palais du Louvre and Château de Versailles).
The main attraction, and what you see photos of, is the upper chapel. Since the sun moves throughout the day, visiting at different times changes your view of the glass. To witness the most spectacular display, I recommend arriving right at opening time, which is 9am. The morning sun from the east will bathe the center panels in a glow, casting dramatic purple beams of light into the chapel.
Amazingly, two-thirds of the 1,113 stained glass windows are original from Medieval times. Ranging from 13-15 meters (over 40 feet) high, they display scenes from the Old and New Testament. In between the glass panels, take note of the more than 100 different plant motifs that decorate the columns. The rose window is from the 15th century and depicts the apocalypse and the return of Christ.
Address: 10 Bd du Palais, 75001 Paris
How to get there: Take metro line 4 to Cité or take the RER B or C to Saint-Michel Notre-Dame.
Hours: April 1st-September 30th: open daily from 9am-7pm. October 1st-March 31st: open daily from 9am-5pm.
Cost: Adult tickets are €13. Free for EU residents under 26 and anyone under 18. Purchase your timed ticket online in advance.
Other tips: Before you go, consider reading more about the history of the chapel on the official website. They have a wonderful brief history in English.
Then, when you arrive, go upstairs first to catch the morning light on the windows. You can finish your visit by exploring the lower chapel. No point in delaying the main event!
Notre Dame Cathedral
CLOSED UNTIL DECEMBER 16, 2024.
Next, wander over to the magnificent Notre Dame Cathedral, which is set to reopen to the public on December 16th, 2024. The spire is back and the interior has been beautifully restored according to those involved in the project, though exterior work will continue on the church until 2028.
Funny enough, I've only been inside the cathedral once briefly during a wedding (of a couple I didn't know) before scurrying quietly out the back to not disturb the ceremony. That was in 2016. I did witness first-hand the 2019 fire, but I've never had the opportunity to explore the inside of this medieval church. I'll be looking forward to the grand reopening like everyone else!
Address: 6 Parvis Notre-Dame - Pl. Jean-Paul II, 75004 Paris
How to get there: A five minute walk from Sainte-Chapelle.
Hours: to be set upon reopening.
Cost: Free to enter.
Musée d'Orsay
Next on your itinerary is one of the best museums in Paris in my opinion, the Musée d'Orsay. Formerly a train station, the space is home to some of the Western world's most famous artworks from the 19th and 20th centuries. And while I do enjoy the full collection on display, what makes the museum stand out is its vast collection of Impressionist and Post-Impressionist works found on the 5th floor.
I tend to start there to hit the highlights and then work my way down. From the fifth floor, you can also get a unique view of Paris through the glass of the massive clocks that adorn the museum's northern facade.
Address: Esplanade Valéry Giscard d'Estaing, 75007 Paris (Entrance on the west end by the animal statues).
How to get there: A gorgeous 30 minute walk along the river to the museum, or take the RER C from Saint-Michel Notre-Dame one stop to Musée d'Orsay. This takes about 10-15 minutes.
Hours: Closed Mondays. Tuesdays, Wednesdays, Fridays, Saturdays, and Sundays open 9:30am-6pm. Thursdays open from 9:30am-9:45pm.
Cost: Tickets are €16. For EU visitors aged 18-25 or anyone under 18, tickets are free. Bookings should be made in advance online.
Other tips: When you get to the entrance, keep in mind that there are different lines based on the type of ticket you have. When in doubt, ask!
Check out the museum map before you go.
Lunch
CLOSED FOR RENOVATIONS from June 10th to September 30th, 2024. In the meantime, check out Café Campana, also located inside the museum.
When you're ready for lunch, be sure not to leave the Musée d'Orsay quite yet. For a historical and elegant French dining experience, head over to the Restaurant du Musée d'Orsay. It's located inside the museum, so note that you won't be able to access it without a museum entry ticket.
I've been meaning to eat here for years but frankly haven't gotten the chance. However, the food is highly rated and I've peeked in many times to get a sense of the space. It's classy without feeling stuffy, and the walls and ceilings are extraordinary. Think Versailles interiors!
While you eat, gaze up at the marvelous fresco paintings by Gabriel Ferrier and Benjamin Constant. Then look down. The chairs you're sitting in were designed by Italian artist Jacopo Foggini, which gives the extravagant space a touch of contemporary style.
Hours: 11:45am-2:30pm for lunch. Tea time hours are 3-5:30pm.
Cost: Meals are about €20-€50 per person, depending on what you're having and how many courses you order.
Other tips: Reservations are not possible, you'll simply need to get in line. The wait can be especially long around 1-2pm, but the food and atmosphere are well worth it.
The Marais
In the afternoon, you'll become a true Parisian as you stroll through the charming streets of the Marais and browse unique shops, just like a 'flâneur', or a casual observer of city life. Le Marais, meaning 'marsh', was an area of marshland up until the 12th century when it was first drained and developed. It's a historical district in Paris that was once the city's Jewish quarter. Today, it's a thriving residential and commercial area in central Paris.
Take some time to wander into the many thrift stores, antique shops, perfume stores, and coffee shops. I'll let you find some of the gems on your own, but thrift stores like Hippy Market and FREE'P'STAR can't be missed. If you're looking for a bite to eat and a coffee, head to Wild & The Moon or the Marché Couvert des Enfants Rouges.
Address: Le Marais, Paris
How to get there: It depends on where you want to start, but for the sake of this itinerary you could begin at République (walk to Invalides from the Musée d'Orsay and hop on line 8 to République) and work your way south towards the river from there.
Hours: Shops usually open at 10am and close sometime in the evening.
Hôtel de Ville
After a bit of shopping, head over to Hôtel de Ville to see the beautiful 19th-century city hall building. It's seen many historic political events over the years, such as the proclamation of the Third French Republic in 1870 and a memorable speech by Charles de Gaulle in 1944 during the Liberation of Paris.
It's often a lively hangout with skateboarders whizzing by and children riding the miniature carousel. But much like Place de la Rèpublique, it's a common rallying spot for protests (a frequent pass time of the French). Use your best judgment and avoid it if things appear to be heating up.
Address: Hôtel de Ville, Paris
How to get there: Hôtel de Ville is on the southwest end of the Marais. You can walk or take metro line 11 if you're still further north.
Shakespeare & Company
If you love the experience of getting lost in a bookstore then you'll want to dedicate a good portion of your afternoon to Shakespeare & Company bookshop. It's stuffed to the brim with new and second-hand English-language books, and if you look hard enough, a grumpy cat sleeping upstairs.
The famous bookstore located in the heart of Paris was founded by American George Whitman in 1951. Its original name was "Le Mistral" until it was changed in 1964 to honor Sylvia Beach's store of the same name. Some 30,000 aspiring artists and writers have worked at the bookstore in exchange for a place to stay in the small residence above the shop. This timeless shop has so much character; it's a must-see while you're in Paris.
Address: 37 Rue de la Bûcherie, 75005 Paris
How to get there: A 10 minute walk from Hôtel de Ville.
Hours: Open Monday-Saturday from 10am-8pm. Open Sundays 12-7pm.
Cost: Free, but there can be a long line to enter.
Other tips: No photos or videos are allowed inside the shop to maintain a relaxing reading environment.
Café de Flore
If you have a little extra time, pop over to Café de Flore for a snack in this historic eatery. It opened in 1887, making it one of the oldest cafes still operating in Paris. By the early 1900s, it was frequented by artists and free thinkers of the time such as Pablo Picasso and Ernest Hemingway. It has kept its reputation over the years and continues to draw in celebrity creatives.
In my opinion, the food isn't anything to write home about and it's too expensive for what it is. You go primarily for the experience of being there: the interior is a work of art (Art Deco, to be precise), and the wait staff still wear tuxedos and white aprons! It's the perfect place to feel transported back in time while you sip on a hot chocolate (trust me) and savor a croissant.
Address: 172 Bd Saint-Germain, 75006 Paris
How to get there: About a 15-20 minute walk from Shakespeare & Co.
Hours: Open daily from 7:30-1:30am.
Cost: Too much! But it's completely fine to go in for only a drink or a simple snack, which is what I recommend. View the menu.
Dinner
After four days in Paris, I'm hoping you've warmed up to the idea of trying some more... unique... local cuisine. If so, there's no better place to have dinner than Roger La Grenouille (Roger The Frog).
This inviting, old-world-style restaurant has been open since 1930 and specializes in serving enduring classic French dishes like snails and frog legs! If you chicken out at the last minute (no judgment) there are non-frog options too, of course. Bon appétit!
Address: Roger La Grenouille, 28 Rue des Grands Augustins, 75006 Paris
How to get there: A 10 minute walk from Café de Flore.
Le Caveau de la Huchette
Your destination for the evening is a place so wonderful I actually can't believe I'm sharing it, but here we are. Let me introduce you to: Le Caveau de la Huchette.
For a small entrance fee at the door, guests are welcomed into this narrow, underground jazz club with live music and an open, jovial atmosphere that convinces even me to try my hand at the dance floor. Buy a glass of wine at the bar and watch the dancers or muster up the courage to join in!
Address: 5 Rue de la Huchette, 75005 Paris
How to get there: A 7 minute walk from the recommended dinner spot, Roger La Grenouille.
Hours: Open Sunday-Thursday from 9pm-2:30am. Fridays and Saturdays open from 9pm-4am.
Other tips: You don't need to speak French to have a good time here! The video above is baby 18-year-old me being summoned to the dance floor by this adorable older French man. We didn't exchange a single word, but it's one of my favorite memories.
Day 5
Château de Versailles
Your fifth day in Paris takes you outside the city limits for a half day in Versailles. The town itself is fairly understated and can be skipped on a first visit. The main attraction here is the Château de Versailles, transformed into the exquisite, extravagant, and immense palace that it is under the orders of Louis XIV, the Sun King. A tour of the palace will take you through the private apartments of the former royal family, the Coronation Room, and the Hall of Mirrors to name a few. If you're interested in learning more about the history as you move through the palace, the audio guide is worth the price.
Once you finish the palace tour, be sure to explore the traditional manicured gardens in the back. The grounds seemingly go on forever, but if you're up for a hike, you can visit Hameau de la Reine (Queen's Hamlet), a fake village created for Queen Marie-Antionette in 1783 so she could play peasant.
Address: Main entrance to the château is at: Place d'Armes, 78000 Versailles
How to get there: Hop on the RER C and get off at Versailles Château Rive Gauche. Depending on where you're leaving from in Paris, it typically takes about 45 minutes. Once you arrive in Versailles, it's a 5-10 minute walk to get to the château.
Hours: Open Tuesday-Sunday from 9am-6:30pm. Closed Mondays.
Cost: Adult tickets that include access to the entire estate (Palace and Gardens) are €32. Palace entry only is €21. Free for anyone under 18 and for EU residents ages 18-25.
Other tips: If you want photos without other people in the famed Hall of Mirrors, you'll need an opening time ticket. People line up before the first entry time, so plan to arrive and get in line at least 30 minutes in advance. Once inside, breeze past the entire tour (don't worry, you can come back) until you arrive in the very last room: the Hall of Mirrors.
Quick snap your photos and ogle at the incredible space at its best. When you're ready, exit the hall at the far end and take the stairs that are immediately to your left. This will allow you to circle back and begin the tour again, this time enjoying the rest of the palace! Note that you're not allowed to go against the flow of traffic, so you do have to restart the tour.
Lunch
As a local, if I'm visiting Versailles, I enjoy grabbing a sandwich and a pastry in town from Antoinette Boulangerie and taking it over to the benches on Bd de la Reine. There are nature paths here and you can watch the sheep grazing as you eat. It feels like a world away from Paris.
Antoinette Boulangerie: 5 Rue de la Pourvoierie, 78000 Versailles
Hours: Open Friday-Wednesday from 6:30am to 7-7:30pm. Closed Thursdays.
Alternatively, you can wait until you get back into the city to enjoy a healthy meal in the lower level of Galeries Lafayette Haussmann at DS Cafe, or mouthwatering phô at Hanoï Cà Phê Opéra. This area is known for its Asian food, so if you'd like a break from French food this is certainly the place to do it.
DS Cafe: basement level of Galeries Lafayette Haussmann. View the menu.
Hours: Open Monday-Saturday from 10am-8pm. Open Sundays 11am-8pm.
Hanoï Cà Phê Opéra: 30 Bd des Italiens, 75009 Paris. View the menu.
Hours: Open daily from 12pm to 12:30-1am.
Galeries Lafayette Haussmann
There are several Galeries Lafayette shopping centers in Paris, but the ones on Boulevard Haussmann are usually the stores people are referring to. The main building, which also features a free terrace, is located at 40 Bd Haussmann. You can find just about everything under the sun inside these luxury department stores, from clothing, accessories, perfume, shoes, kids' toys, pastries, wine, stationery, decor, and more.
I can't say I'm too interested in purchasing any of what's for sale, but it's well worth spending some time window shopping and gawking at the gold, art nouveau dome inside. During the holiday season, a massive Christmas tree is constructed to fill the rotunda under the dome. It's extraordinary!
While you're there, be sure to go all the way up to the top level for the free observation deck. It offers a unique vantage point of central Paris, including a wonderful view of the opera house and the Eiffel Tower.
Address: 40 Bd Haussmann, 75009 Paris
How to get there: From Versailles, Get on the RER C from Versailles Château Rive Gauche and get off at Invalides about a half hour later. Transfer to metro line 8 from Invalides to Opéra. From there, it's about a five minute walk to the shopping center.
Hours: Open Monday-Saturday from 10am-8:30pm. Open Sundays from 11am-8pm.
Cost: Free to enter the store and access the observation deck.
Les Passages
Spend the remaining part of your late afternoon perusing bookstores, craft shops, and other eclectic shops in 'les passages', or a series of covered pedestrian streets that close at night.
Here's a quick guide to the best in the city (in walking order). See as many of as few as you like, but you can't miss Galerie Vivienne, Passage Jouffroy, and Passage Verdeau.
- Passage du Grand Cerf - a personal favorite since I lived in the apartment building next to this passage for 4 years! Features a craft store, jewelry shop, and other boutiques.
- Galerie Veró-Dodat - fancy shops and dining.
- Galerie Vivienne - postcards, books, pastries, and boutiques.
- Passages des Panoramas - restaurants and jewelry, mostly.
- Passage Jouffroy - photo prints, bookstores, postcards, plus access to the Musée Grévin.
- Passage Verdeau - bookstores, gift shops, and antiques.
How to get there: From Galeries Lafayette Haussmann, take metro line 3 from Opéra to Réaumur - Sébastopol. Takes about 15 minutes.
Hours: Depends on the passage, but most are open by 10am and some close as early as 7pm. Note that many are closed or have limited hours on Sundays.
Cost: Free to wander around and enter the shops.
Palais Garnier
In the evening, make your way to the Opera House, also known as Palais Garnier after its architect Charles Garnier, which offers a chance to experience a truly magical evening, either by taking a guided tour or seeing a show.
To delve deeper into Palais Garnier's history and architecture, I'd suggest taking a self-guided tour. These tours offer a glimpse behind the scenes, taking you to otherwise off-limits areas like dressing rooms and a closer look at the stage.
However, if you opt to attend a performance, there is a little time beforehand to explore the spectacular gold-detailed interiors. Once in your seat, be sure to look up to catch a glimpse of Marc Chagall's famous fresco that decorates the ceiling above the stage. I've seen a condensed version of Swan Lake (covid curfews are not a fond memory of mine) at the Opera House, and it was wonderful.
Address: Place de l'Opéra, 75009 Paris
How to get there: Depends on where you end up after your walking tour of the passages, but if you end at Passage Verdeau, it's only a 15 minute walk to the Opera House.
Hours: Self-guided and guided tours run daily from 10am-5pm unless otherwise stated on their website. Performances usually begin at 8pm.
Cost: For a self-guided tour, adults are €15, ages 12-25 are €12, and children under age 12 are free. To see a show, ticket prices vary dramatically based on where you're sitting and what night you're attending. Prices can range from €12-€170.
Other tips: When booking tickets for a performance online, make sure you've selected a show that states the location is Palais Garnier. The same site also lists shows held at Opéra Bastille. Also, keep in mind that seats sell out months in advance, so book as soon as you have your travel dates confirmed.
Dinner
For your final evening in the City of Lights, make a reservation for one of my favorite authentic French restaurants, Pouliche - Amandine Chaignot. Part of the fun of eating here is that there's no need to look up the menu in advance; everyone will be eating the same thing!
The chef unveils a brand new, multi-course menu each day, but you won't know what you're getting until it's in front of you. Well, that or until you steal a glance at the tables around you! Your dining experience will include a starter, a main course, and a dessert for a set price.
While the menu changes, ingredients are always fresh and sourced locally when possible, the food is beautifully presented, and frankly, I've never had a bad dish here. The atmosphere is the right combination of fancy but not unwelcoming. Perhaps the mystery of the menu keeps diners in a good mood!
Address: 11 Rue d'Enghien, 75010 Paris
How to get there: A half hour walk from Palais Garnier. Otherwise, take metro line 8 from Opéra to Bonne Nouvelle, which takes about 15 minutes in total.
Hours: Reservations are required.
Cost: Dinner is always €62. Drinks other than tap water are not included in the set price. If you decide to go for lunch instead, it'll be €30 during the week or €35 on the weekend.
Other tips: On Wednesdays, they always serve 100% vegetarian dishes. Obviously, this is not a good place to eat for those with food allergies.
Honorable Mentions
The Catacombs
This is such an insanely cool thing to do in Paris, but I understand that walking underground paths lined with human skulls isn't exactly everyone's idea of a fun time. I happened to love the experience. The one-mile, roughly 45-minute tour keeps you on a perfectly safe walking path where you can view the walls and walls of six million people's remains.
However, there are (illegal) tours where expert guides, known as Cataphiles, can take you well beyond the limits of what you'll see on the official visit. This extensive network of former mining tunnels runs some 180 miles under the city of Paris. Sounds fun at first, but this secret society is not a fan of outsiders and urban legend states sabotage to try to get tourists lost down there is not unheard of. Being unprepared or hitting your head could have serious consequences, so even if you find a willing guide, please don't go for your own safety and stick to the official visit.
Address: 1 Av. du Colonel Henri Rol-Tanguy, 75014 Paris
How to get there: Take metro line 4, 6, or the RER B to Denfert-Rochereau.
Hours: Open Tuesday-Sunday from 9:45am-8:30pm with last access at 7:30pm. Closed Mondays.
Cost: Tickets are €29 for adults and €10 for kids ages 5-17. You can purchase them online in advance which is recommended.
Other tips: Note that this is an underground walking tour, so you'll pop back up about a mile from the entrance. As for the passages themselves, I'm 5'7" and only ran into one or two spots where I had to duck my head, so don't let your height deter you!
Cimetière du Père-Lachaise
I didn't realize these two honorable mentions are both death-related until now, but here we are. If you find yourself in the area, the Cimetière du Père-Lachaise is worth a quick lap to visit the grave sites of famous historical figures like Eugène Delacroix, Frédéric Chopin, and Oscar Wilde.
Address: Cimetière du Père-Lachaise, 75020 Paris
How to get there: Take metro line 2 to Philippe Auguste. Enter at the intersection of Bd de Ménilmontant and Rue du Repos, as it'll get you closest to a few of the famous gravesites.
Hours: Open Monday-Friday from 8am-6pm. Open Saturdays 8:30am-6pm and Sundays 9am-6pm.
Cost: Free to enter.
Other tips: Check out this English language map of who's buried where.
More restaurant recommendations in Paris
Bouillon Chartier Grands Boulevards - A relatively inexpensive but classy French dining experience. It's a little more geared towards tourists, but I enjoy the experience all the same. No reservations. 7 Rue du Faubourg Montmartre, 75009 Paris.
Pain Vin Fromages - A small, intimate dining experience and the place for raclette and fondou in Paris. Reservations are a must. 3 Rue Geoffroy l'Angevin, 75004 Paris.
Kintaro Ramen - My favorite Japanese restaurant in the city. 24 Rue Saint-Augustin, 75002 Paris. Reservations aren't required, you'll simply need to wait in line for a bit.
As you've probably noticed by now, adventuring around Paris requires a lot of walking. And these are full days! Please don't feel like you need to hit everything on this itinerary, and take public transportation as much as possible to save your legs. These five days in Paris should give you a strong introduction to the city, but there will always be more for you to see on your next trip. Is there anything I missed that's an absolute must-see for a first trip to Paris? Let me know in the comments below! Bon voyage!
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