If you're looking to up your travel photography game, you've come to the right place.
Odds are you're as travel obsessed as I am, and are looking for some tools and techniques to turn your vacation snaps into gorgeous, sharable photos. That's why I'm here - to share some of my best travel photography tips to help you improve your skills.
So you want to become a better photographer, but where to start? It can be intimidating to slap up a tripod in the middle of a crowded city square or to ask a total stranger if you can take their photo. I still hate doing this, to be honest. There are also so many technical articles telling beginners that they need to buy pro-level gear and $4,000 cameras in order to take a decent photo! The lies!
I received my very first DSLR camera as a Christmas gift in 2015. I've been obsessed with photography, camera gear, and photo editing and manipulation ever since. I bring my camera everywhere. I also studied photography in undergrad, so it's fair to say I've picked up some skills over the years.
Of course, I'm still learning - and I hope I never stop. But I've reached a level where I feel confident sharing my expertise. You do not have to study photography or do it as a career to capture breathtaking images like a pro. Like anything, photography is a skill that can be learned. And here's to you! By reading this article you're already one step closer to capturing the photos of your dreams.
Before you go
Plan ahead
I planned to get up early in Zurich so the sun hit these buildings head on.
Before you leave for your destination, it's important to have some sort of photo plan. When you're researching attractions and planning where you want to go, make note of the main places where you'd like to take photos. This could be done by marking them on Google Maps, or you could take it a step further and develop a shot list. A shot list is a list of all the photos you'd like to take during a particular shoot. For example, if you were looking to get photos of the Eiffel Tower, your shot list could include bullet points like, "base shot at sunset" or "portrait of myself from Rue de l'Université". You can check off each shot as you go.
I usually just have a general list of the "greatest hits" in my location that I know I want to photograph and note roughly when I'll be visiting each spot.
Get familiar with your camera
Practice changing some manual settings like shutter speed.
The last thing you want to be doing is fumbling with settings when you're out shooting - especially if the perfect shot is disappearing fast. Take time to read your camera's instruction manual and figure out how to manipulate some of the manual functions. Get comfortable changing the shutter speed and depth of field (aperture).
Check to see if your camera has any other features you'd like to experiment with. Does your camera have eye or object tracking? How does it work, and does it work well enough to use? Some entry-level cameras may have these features, but it's important to test them to make sure they're up to your standards (responsiveness, image is in focus, etc).
Bring a zoom lens
A zoom lens lets you capture a subject from far away and make it appear closer.
A zoom lens is essential for travel photography. You need to be able to capture impressive landscapes, make portraits, and get in close to faraway subjects. Anything from 18-24mm would be enough for those wide-angle landscapes. 50-75mm is perfect for portraits. Beyond that, how much of a zoom you want is up to you. I shoot full-frame (FX) with an 18-105mm lens, and it suits my needs perfectly.
Note that if you have an entry or mid-range camera, your camera body's sensor is likely cropped. This means that an 18-105mm lens on a DX camera body (with cropped sensor) will behave like a 27-157.5mm lens. In this example, you'd have much more of a zoom but less capability for wide-angle shots.
Pack light
If you're out walking around all day, you'll have to decide how much camera you really want to carry around.
There's no point in owning the biggest, fanciest gear when you're traveling if it's too big and heavy to actually carry around. I have been guilty of taking short trips where I didn't want to bring much and left my camera at home. You'll always regret the pictures you could have taken if only you had your camera. Trust me. To avoid this, make sure you're investing in a camera that's compact and lightweight. Big and bulky will never make it into your suitcase.
Similarly, if you bring too much heavy camera gear but end up leaving it in the hotel room, then what was the point? You don't need three lenses and two camera bodies and maybe a drone to be on the safe side. Not unless this is your profession. Your gear needs to be manageable so you'll always want to take it with you. Skinny it down! Think about what you absolutely need and leave the rest at home.
The best camera is the one you have with you
You can create awe-inspiring images with ANY camera.
This is 100% a chiché... but it's true. If you don't own a camera but you have a smartphone then make the most of it! Play with all of its settings and get creative. iPhones have a surprising amount of manual settings you can manipulate, and there are apps that let you change the ISO, shutter speed, and f-stop.
Sometimes the best photos appear all of a sudden, and you'll be grateful you had your camera, whatever it may look like. Having it with you is half the battle in getting better at travel photography.
On location
Prioritize photography time
Schedule extra time for taking photographs.
Having built-in photography time is necessary in order to get better photographs. You can't hurry around to 100 different locations and expect to get that one-in-a-million shot by clicking the shutter as you run past your subject.
Often, this means getting up early before the scheduled part of your day begins. Spend a few hours before the rest of the world wakes and take advantage of the empty, peaceful surroundings to get your perfect image.
In other cases, dedicated photo time means breaking off from your group for a few hours. If you're taking a guided tour, be sure to ask your guide about the best types of photos to take. Are the locals friendly and colorful? Is there something your destination is known for? They'll also know about the best photo spots - and when to be there. They will have a wealth of local knowledge you can take into account when shooting.
Get up early & stay up late
Even the busiest, most touristy locations are empty early in the morning.
As I hinted at previously, getting up early to take travel photos can be a necessary evil. Being up early before everyone else means fewer people (if any!) in very touristy places. You'll also get the benefit of the early morning light, which makes everything look good.
You should also pick at least one night to stay out late. You'll see the same attractions in a whole new light (pun intended). Night shots are a great way to get a unique photo of a popular photo spot. Just remember to bring your tripod!
Be mindful of the light
Look on Google Maps to see when your subject will be lit the best.
Light is such an important part of photography. Before you take a photo, take an extra second to literally look up in the sky and figure out where the light is coming from. What angle is it coming from, what is lit and what is in shadow, and how are these elements affecting my subject? Doing this may help you find a better angle to shoot your subject from, or you may want to wait until the light is better.
For example, if you're interested in portraiture when traveling, sunny mid-day is not the time to do it. Your subjects will have heavy, raccoon-looking shadows under their eyes. You'd do better to wait until late afternoon or evening when the light is more flattering.
You can plan for lighting even before you leave for your trip. Check Google Maps to see what cardinal direction your subject is facing. If the facade of the building you want to capture is east-facing, early morning would be the perfect time to go, whereas it would be completely shaded out in the afternoon.
Be patient
I didn't like how flat the colors were looking here.
So I waited until the sun peaked out to add some warmth to the image.
Travel photography is all about being patient. We have to wait for tourists to walk out of frame, for the sun to be in just the right spot, and for that bird to land on the branch.
That said, it can be difficult to explain to your friends that you're going to wait 20 minutes in the exact same spot for the sky to look better. It usually doesn't go over well. This is partly why I love to travel solo or with other photographers who get it.
Move around
After exploring the scene, I used a low angle to capture the rocks - creating a foreground in an otherwise relatively flat frame.
Move. Your. Feet! Think about it... how many times have you walked up to your subject and taken lots of photos, proud of yourself… only to walk away thinking you were done and realized you found a more interesting vantage point? I did this alll the time when I was first starting out with photography.
Sure, walk up to your subject and take the "obvious" photo. But wait, you're not done! Walk around, get high and low, and explore your subject from all angles. Don't get stuck in one spot.
Get intentionally lost
Chateau de Chaumont in France's Loire Valley, hidden in the trees.
For me, wandering around on location has to do with storytelling. You're probably not going to stumble onto anything extraordinary that's not already in every guidebook. But allowing yourself to freely explore your location creates opportunities for you to capture a more authentic, local experience. You'll find tucked-away cafes, locals getting their groceries, small roads, and interesting details.
It also gives you the chance to find new angles and perspectives in a heavily photographed destination.
Best practices
Ask for permission
Even if you're in a situation where other people are already taking photos, it's still courteous and professional to ask.
Asking for permission is a must when taking photographs of people. Not everyone wants their photo taken. Others are agreeable but ask for money (whether or not you agree is completely up to you).
For example, if a local street vendor catches your eye, go up and chat with them first. Ask for directions or ask questions about what they're selling. Maybe buy something. Then ask to take their photo. It's important to build some sort of a little relationship before stuffing a camera in their face.
Of course, they have no obligation to you to say yes. But if they do say yes, I've found people are more willing to work with you to get a good image if you chat with them first. They want to be helpful and some enjoy the attention.
It can still be awkward and nerve-racking. Some of that never goes away. But the more you ask the easier it is to hear the word "no".
Be culturally sensitive
Use silent shooting mode in places of worship.
Think about where you are going. Will you be visiting places where it might be inappropriate to take photos, or even illegal?
Street photography in South Korea without getting the subject's prior consent is a criminal offense. All photography and videography is illegal in The Sistine Chapel in Vatican City, and employees have the right to delete images off your camera. Uluru-Kata Tjuta National Park in Australia is home to a sacred rock according to the Aboriginal people. Commercial photography is banned, and personal photography is off-limits in some areas surrounding the landmark. There are places in the UAE where you can't even have a camera with you, even if you're not using it.
All of this is to say that it's important to know these things before you go and plan accordingly.
In places of worship where photography is allowed, I still always switch my camera to "silent shooting mode". Just use your best judgment and try to be respectful.
Safety
Make sure you are aware of your surroundings when shooting, especially at night.
Your safety is always more important than a shot that could have been. Stay aware and alert. Photographers can sometimes be victims of pickpocketing because our attention is elsewhere. Be mindful of where your valuables are, and make sure nothing like money or your passport is visible. Keep them tucked away in zipped pockets or consider getting an anti-theft backpack.
Basically, make smart choices. If you’re getting a bad feeling about your location, turn around! Don’t wander around anywhere sketchy with a $5,000 camera around your neck. And stay behind the safety railings! A great image is ALWAYS second to your safety.
Composition
Make sure your photo has a subject
All the elements in this frame lead your eye back to the green bridge.
Make sure your image actually has a subject. This may sound obvious, but I see so many photos (and am occasionally guilty of this myself!) where people just thought they were in a pretty part of town, whipped out their camera to take a snap of the scene, and were done. Those photos look busy, unbalanced, and confusing. Your eye can’t figure out what it’s supposed to be looking at, because the photographer didn’t have a clear subject in mind. Taking an extra 30 seconds to think about why you are taking the photo and what you want to show can eradicate this issue.
Rule of thirds
You can add these grid lines to your camera display and viewfinder.
One of the most basic compositional tools you can use to take better travel photos is the rule of thirds. Placing your subject slightly off-center by using the rule of thirds can create a more interesting frame. It also works for portraiture, where your subject's eyes could be at an intersection of the thirds grid. This grid is a setting that can be turned on for your viewfinder in almost all cameras. iPhones have this setting in Settings, Camera, and under Composition turn on Grid.
Symmetry and balance
This image has equal visual weight on the left and right sides of the frame.
Remembering to consider balance in a photograph is easily one of the most helpful tools I ever learned! This may sound contradictory to the rule of thirds, but remember that not every photography tool needs to be used all at once. Balance isn't about symmetry, but about making sure the overall frame has equal visual weight. So if you have a big mountain in the top right third of your image, framing a foreground object in the lower left third would balance the visual weight of the mountain.
I find remembering balance to be most helpful with complex images where there’s a lot going on in the frame, but it's a helpful tool in most instances.
If you look at the example above, the buildings on the left and right edges are heavy in the frame, but they balance each other. Had I swung my camera more to the left or right, the clothesline would be at the edge of the image, looking lost and askew next to the weighty houses. The image would have too much visual weight on one side or the other.
There are some cases where symmetry can be the perfect form of balance for an image, like when leading lines (more on this in a moment) lead back to a perfectly centered subject. It can be very pleasing to the eye when shooting architecture.
Showcasing the symmetry of architecture in your photos is an easy way to make your frame look well-composed.
Foreground, middle ground, & background
This lush landscape of the Altas Mountains has a clear foreground, middle ground, and background.
A great image has all three: foreground, middle ground, and background. Wide-angle landscape shots sometimes do this for you, as the scene gets further and further away from you. In most cases though, it's a conscious effort to find something interesting on all 3 of these visual planes to give your image depth and interest.
The couple created a compelling foreground for this park photograph.
Shoot through things
Find an object in the foreground and use it to frame your subject.
I used a rose bush to frame the Sacré-Cœur.
This is one of the best travel photography tips I can share with you, and it works for all kinds of images. The idea of shooting through things means you use something in the foreground, which is out of focus, to frame your subject, which is in focus. Shooting through things instantly creates more dynamic, intriguing images. Additionally, semi-transparent or reflective surfaces are super fun to shoot through and can create amazing patterns and blurs.
Leading lines
The trees, fence, and path all create leading lines to the center of the frame.
This one is pretty self-explanatory. Leading lines are lines that appear in a photograph (think fences, a road, railroad tracks, a river) that lead the viewer's eye to the subject of the photograph. In the image above, the trees, the fence, and the paths all create leading lines that focus the viewer's eye on the end of the path in the distance.
Sometimes simplicity is best
A wide frame can give an air of luxury and mystery.
Just like in advertising, the less information the ad provides, the more mysterious and interesting the product seems. Sometimes that means leaving out the price, technical specs, or even the name. It's so simple that it's gorgeous, and it will feel expensive.
The same is true in photography. Cropping out distracting details will give your image a clear subject, and make the photo feel professional... and maybe even mysterious.
Play with depth of field
A shallow depth of field will focus the viewer's attention on your subject.
Taking the time to master your camera's aperture settings will give you more creative control over your images. A narrow depth of field (meaning very little is in focus) will immediately draw the viewer's eye to the subject in focus. It works well in portraiture, especially if the background is less than optimal. It can be interesting in travel photography as a way to hone in on tight, detailed shots of your destination.
Get close. Now closer.
I was attracted to the movement of the water and the colors from the sun, but this image wasn't working.
I got closer and focused on the details and found a much more successful composition.
Don’t be afraid of getting too close. A lot of travel photography is about epic wide-angle scenes, but sometimes an image tells a better story about where you are in the details. Details invoke emotion and feel intimate.
Keep an eye out for reflections
Reflections are an easy way to elevate a scene from average to extraordinary.
Reflections are another useful tool that will elevate your images. A once flat image can become extraordinary. If you're reflection hunting, taking a walk after heavy rain will leave you with lots of opportunities!
Contrast as a framing tool
I used the light, sunny arch to frame my darkly clothed subject.
How much contrast you like in your images is something you can play with as you develop your own photographic style. Regardless, contrast can be a strong framing tool.
I've had some professional photographers tell me that they set their viewfinders to show black and white when they're shooting, so they only see the final photos in color once they offload their images.
Eliminating color can be a great teaching tool when learning about composition and contrast. That said, I love color too much and would never shoot without it. But you should still think about the imaginary grayscale in your head when you shoot. High contrast will always make your subject look prominent in the frame.
Remember the human element
A man fishing just outside of the restaurant he was working at.
Don't forget about the people you see when you travel! Landscape and travel photographers often spend a lot of time waiting for people to move out of their shot. But part of discovering a new place is discovering its people, too. Locals can add so much vibrancy and cultural color (is that a thing?) to your images. Just remember to get their permission first!
Technical details
Pack the essentials
View from the Pantheon in Paris.
Make sure you pack lots of fully charged batteries, your battery charger, and plenty of memory for your trip. And depending on where you're going, you may need a step-down or step-up converter for your charger. Yes, they're heavy, but don't risk it and not pack one if you need one. You could destroy your batteries!
Bring a microfiber cloth
Keep a microfiber cloth in your pocket if you're out on the water; it will wipe away water drop stains on your lens.
Keep a microfiber cloth in your camera kit to clean your lens. It will remove dust, water streaks, and other grime without getting your greasy fingerprints all over your gorgeous glass. I cut about a 3-inch square off of a microfiber dust cloth and keep it in my camera bag.
Carry a tripod
Some low-light conditions may require a tripod.
Consider bringing a lightweight travel tripod for your trip. It's not always necessary; it really depends on your location and environmental conditions. If you’re looking to do long exposures then a tripod will be essential. Low-light conditions may also require it if your camera doesn't perform well at high ISOs. And of course, if you're traveling alone and want to get great travel photos of yourself, a tripod is a must!
Back up your photos
Offload and back up your photos as you travel.
Back up your photos when you get back to your accommodation at the end of each day. Don't wait until you get back home from your trip. The golden rule is to have your work in 3 different locations. When I travel, I like to have a copy of my photos on my laptop, external hard drive, and SD card. Then I keep them in different bags when I'm on the move. Luggage gets lost and cards get wet and corrupted. But if you keep your photos in multiple locations, if something like this happened to you then you wouldn't lose any of your precious memories.
On the same note, if your camera has this feature, consider shooting to dual memory cards. This means that for every photograph you take, a copy is kept on two different memory cards. You'd likely need a higher-range camera to have this capability - but if you have it, use it!
Wedding photographers do this because it's a high-stakes job and they'd be toast if something went wrong with their one memory card. It's always better to have a backup. You can erase the second memory card when you're home, but better safe than sorry when you're on location.
There’s nothing sadder than a corrupted card and losing an entire trip’s worth of photos. Don’t let this be you!
Back home
Editing
A frequent refrain of mine when I'm shooting is, "This is going to look sooo good." The keyword there is going. A camera isn't always going to pick up the colors you see in real life. You have to shoot with the final image in mind in the back of your head. Learning basic editing technics such as modifying the highlights, shadows, vibrance, and contrast can bring your image to life in post.
To have maximum control over your photos when you're editing, make the switch to shooting RAW. They're bigger files but allow for way more push and pull in regard to photo manipulation.
I edit my photos in Lightroom CC, and do big corrections like removing people or replacing a sky in Photoshop.
Print your photographs
Your eye will develop the more you shoot, so keep practicing!
I'm going to keep yelling this into the wind until someone hears me: print your photographs!
Seriously, print them even if it’s on cheap 8.5 x 11-inch printer paper. Stick the photos on your wall and step back. Analyze them from a distance so you can see each composition as a whole. Then get close and mark them up. What’s not working? Is the image too heavy on the left side, making the image feel unbalanced? Is an important detail just out of frame? Or do you wish you were standing an inch to the right? Why? Literally circling the “problems” with your images and marking them up is a form of training your eye to be more mindful of these issues when you’re actually out shooting. That way, you're less likely to repeat your mistakes.
These are just a few tools to get you started on a path toward creating epic travel photos. All the compositional rules can be a lot to remember, especially once you're at your destination. In the beginning, it's more of a conscious effort to find the right frame. Keep asking yourself why you make the choices you're making. Eventually, you won't have to think about it as much and it will become second nature.
Most importantly, though, have fun and experiment! Photography has been a life-long passion of mine and it's such a great creative outlet. I hope you find joy in the process too. Let me know in the comments what other travel photography tips you have!
Do you want to improve your travel photography?
Invest in a DSLR or mirrorless camera
It's true that the best camera is the one in your hand. But if you're looking to up your photography game (and have a better camera in your hand!) it's worth investing in a DSLR or mirrorless camera. I usually prefer mirrorless cameras for travel. Why? They tend to be more compact, lighter, and easier to carry.
Budget: If you're just getting into photography, and want a step up in image quality from your phone, check out the:
- Nikon D3500. This is a great all-around beginner camera. F-stop goes up to an impressive 1.4, making it good for low-light and playing with depth of field. Nikon has tons of lens options to pair this camera with (I'd suggest a zoom lens for travel).
- Mirrorless Fujifilm X-T200. This camera is also small and lightweight. It has a touchscreen and several high-end features like eye tracking.
- Mirrorless Sony A6000. They offer a lot of high-range features at an entry-level price.
Mid-range:
- Mirrorless Nikon Z50. It's small and lightweight with impressive autofocus and 4k video.
- Mirrorless Sony a6400. Compact camera with object-tracking, beautiful colors, and 4k video.
Pro-level:
- Mirrorless Sony A7iii. It's what I shoot with, paired with the 24-105mm f4 lens. This camera is my baby. I'm continuously amazed by the image quality and all its cool features like eye tracking, wifi, and high ISO capabilities. If you're looking for a full-frame camera that's also super light and compact, this is it.
Travel Tripod
There are so many instances when I wished I had a tripod with me when traveling, but they can be beasts and impossible to carry around. For something that folds up into next to nothing, is lightweight, and won't break the bank, check out the:
- ZOMEI Z669C Carbon Fiber Portable Tripod. It has a max height of almost 60 inches and collapses to 14.6 inches. It's only 3.22 pounds but has a sturdy build.
